Chaps London

Men's jeans are the whole of this week: a baggy wide-leg pair, an extra-wide loose-fit pair in a vintage wash, a black baggy pair for evenings and denim joggers with a drawstring waist. Four pairs that hold each other up. The rest is one rule. Once you have it, a loose pair of jeans is as easy to dress as a chino, and autumn outfits stop being guesswork. The rule: loose below, lean on top Only one piece in the outfit is allowed to carry volume, and with jeans that piece is the trousers. Wide denim brings fabric with it. The leg falls straight from the thigh to the hem and the cloth moves when you walk, and that movement is the point. Put a second loose piece on top and the shape disappears, so you read shorter and heavier than you are. In practice that means the jeans sit loose and the top sits on the body: a T-shirt, a shirt or a knit in a normal fit. Shoulder seam on the shoulder, cuff at the wrist, hem at the waistband. Three quick checks and you are done. Men's jeans in a b...

A rain jacket is the piece that sits on top of everything in autumn: over the shirt, over the knitted cardigan, over the fleece. What matters is not how warm the jacket is on its own, but how quietly it sits over the rest of the outfit. Five pieces cover the whole wet season: the hooded waterproof windbreaker, the fleece-lined softshell, the zip-up knitted cardigan, the Harrington jacket and the wool trench coat. One rule sets the order in which you put them on. The rule for every rain jacket: one job per layer The outer layer keeps the rain out, the layer underneath keeps you warm, and no single piece tries to do both. As soon as one piece attempts both jobs, something goes wrong. A heavily padded coat is too warm at eight degrees and drizzle, and a wool jumper worn as the top layer soaks up water and stays wet all afternoon. Splitting the jobs solves it: a smooth, water-repellent shell with a hood on the outside, fleece or knit underneath, swapped out as the temperature drops. In pra...

In September the jumper comes back out of the drawer, and by October it is doing half the work in a man's wardrobe. No other piece gets worn as often in these weeks, and no other comes in quite so many versions: crew neck, quarter-zip, roll neck, polo jumper and cardigan, each in a fine or chunky knit, plain or cable. All of that sorts itself out with a single rule. Once you know it, you reach for the right jumper in the morning instead of guessing in front of the wardrobe. The rule behind every jumper The neckline decides what goes underneath. The weight of the knit decides what goes on top. A crew neck takes a T-shirt or a shirt, a V-neck shows the collar and placket of a shirt, and a roll neck needs nothing underneath at all. A fine knit fits under a blazer and a slim coat. A chunky knit, on the other hand, is an outer layer in its own right and will take nothing more than a generously cut coat. Those two questions settle almost every combination: what does the neckline show, an...

Smart casual is the only dress code that unsettles everybody and that nobody ever explains. It turns up in invitations, in first-day-back emails and in office dress policies, almost always without a definition. Ask, and you get "normal, but not too casual", which settles nothing. It can be stated precisely, and once it is, the whole thing gets easy. The rule nobody writes down Smart casual means a collar, a fabric trouser and a closed leather shoe, and at most one of those three may be relaxed. That is the entire rule. Chinos instead of tailored trousers is one relaxation. A polo instead of a shirt is one. Trainers instead of loafers is one. One of them is smart casual. Two is casual. Three is leisurewear, and at that point no blazer can rescue it. The rule shows up in the morning. If you know you want to wear trainers today, you also know the shirt and the fabric trousers are not negotiable. You make the decision once instead of three times. What changes in September Through...

September asks the same question every morning. It is eleven degrees at eight, twenty one by one o'clock, and twelve again on the way home. A winter coat is too much, a shirt is not enough, and the jacket that actually solves it is the one most men do not own. A transitional men's jacket is not a thin winter coat. It is a jacket you can open and close all day without the outfit underneath falling apart. This guide sorts the shapes by temperature, says what matters about the fit of each one, and finishes with the layer that goes under all of them. What a transitional jacket has to do Three things decide it, and warmth is not the first one. It has to open quickly. Zip or buttons, either works, but a jacket that only functions fully on or fully off is the wrong jacket in September. The spread across a single day is around ten degrees, and the jacket has to cover both ends of it. It has to leave room for a layer. This is the mistake that happens at the point of purchase. A jacket...