Men's Jumpers and Cardigans: Which Knit to Wear, When and With What

In September the jumper comes back out of the drawer, and by October it is doing half the work in a man's wardrobe. No other piece gets worn as often in these weeks, and no other comes in quite so many versions: crew neck, quarter-zip, roll neck, polo jumper and cardigan, each in a fine or chunky knit, plain or cable.

All of that sorts itself out with a single rule. Once you know it, you reach for the right jumper in the morning instead of guessing in front of the wardrobe.

Man in a navy quarter-zip jumper with the zip half open over a white T-shirt, grey chinos and brown suede loafers, leaning against a black railing

The rule behind every jumper

The neckline decides what goes underneath. The weight of the knit decides what goes on top.

A crew neck takes a T-shirt or a shirt, a V-neck shows the collar and placket of a shirt, and a roll neck needs nothing underneath at all. A fine knit fits under a blazer and a slim coat. A chunky knit, on the other hand, is an outer layer in its own right and will take nothing more than a generously cut coat.

Those two questions settle almost every combination: what does the neckline show, and what still has to go over it? The five pieces in this guide each answer them differently.

The crew-neck jumper: where every knitwear wardrobe starts

The crew-neck jumper is the piece every knitwear wardrobe should start with, because it goes with almost everything: jeans, chinos, smart trousers and a blazer.

The fine, smooth version is the most versatile. It works over a T-shirt as well as over a shirt, and it sits so flat under a blazer that nothing pulls across the shoulders. Rib knit sits closer to the body, looks sportier and belongs with jeans rather than suit trousers.

With a T-shirt underneath, one rule applies: the T-shirt must not show below the hem. With a shirt, it is the other way round: the collar comes neatly out of the neckline, and the cuffs show a finger's width below the sleeves. You will find crew necks in the FW26 Collection.

The quarter-zip: the jumper with a zip at the collar

A quarter-zip, often sold as a half-zip jumper, is a jumper with a stand-up collar and a short zip or button placket at the neck. It is the most practical jumper of the autumn, because you can adjust it in one movement: zipped up on the platform, half open in a heated office.

There are three ways to wear a men's quarter-zip. Over a T-shirt, with the zip half open, it is a weekend outfit with jeans. Over a polo shirt or a shirt, with the shirt collar inside the open stand-up collar, it becomes an office piece with chinos. And under a coat, the stand-up collar does the job of a scarf until it gets properly cold.

When you choose one, look at the collar: a firm, high collar keeps its shape when open and therefore looks neater than a soft one that flops over. The quarter-zip is where the choice of colours and knits is widest, and a good selection sits in Polos and Shirts.

The roll-neck jumper: instead of a shirt and tie

The roll-neck jumper gets the most effect for the least effort. A slim, fine roll-neck under a blazer or a coat looks as sharp as a shirt and tie, but it is more comfortable and warmer.

Man in a black roll-neck jumper under an open grey wool coat, grey chinos and black suede loafers, standing on the stone steps of a white London townhouse

Fit is what matters. Slim fit and fine knit go under a blazer, with the collar folded once so that it ends just below the chin. Chunky and loose roll necks, on the other hand, work on their own: with jeans or chinos, and with nothing more than an open jacket on top.

If a roll neck feels too tight at the neck, choose a jumper with a high neck. It only comes halfway up and does the same job under a coat. The classic colour is black, because it always works with grey and navy blazers and coats. White and beige look fresher in autumn but need dark trousers. Roll necks are in the FW26 Collection.

The polo jumper: a collar without the shirt

The polo jumper is a long-sleeved knitted jumper with a polo collar and a short button placket. It solves a problem many men know in autumn: on some days a shirt feels too formal, and a jumper on its own feels too casual.

The collar gives it the structure of a shirt, and the knit gives it the comfort of a jumper. Under a blazer, a polo jumper therefore reads like a shirt. With smart trousers and loafers, it makes a complete office outfit. It is worn without a tie, and the top button stays undone.

If you prefer something sportier, go for the version with a zip at the polo collar. It sits between the polo jumper and the quarter-zip and works best with chinos. Polo jumpers are in Polos and Shirts.

The men's cardigan: buttons or zip

The cardigan is the most underrated piece of knitwear. It is a jumper and a jacket at once, and in September and October it replaces both on many days.

Man in a beige chunky cable-knit cardigan over a white T-shirt, navy chinos and brown loafers, sitting at an outdoor café table

The button-up cardigan is the classic shape. Worn with a V-neck over a shirt, it takes on the role of a soft blazer. Worn open over a T-shirt, it becomes a light jacket. Leave the bottom button undone, just as you would on a blazer.

The zip-up cardigan is sportier and often has a stand-up collar. It is worn like a light jacket over a T-shirt or a long-sleeved top and works equally well with jeans and chinos.

The third version is the chunky cardigan, often with a cable knit and patch pockets. It is warm enough to replace a jacket on mild autumn days, and it wants a slim silhouette underneath: a thin top and slim trousers. Many of the cardigans sit in Jackets.

The jumper over a shirt

A jumper over a shirt is the autumn combination that goes wrong most often, and it is usually down to the edges. The collar and cuffs of the shirt should show, but the shirt tail should not. A shirt hanging out below a jumper looks forgotten, not relaxed.

It is easiest with a V-neck jumper, because it frames the shirt collar on its own. With a crew neck, bring the collar out and lay it flat on the knit. A roll neck, on the other hand, takes no shirt at all.

If a jumper over a shirt feels too warm, a fine polo jumper does the same job in a single layer. Shirts and knitwear for this look are in Smart Casual.

Cable knit, rib knit, elbow patches: what the texture says

Besides the neckline and the weight, the surface decides how formal a jumper looks. The smoother the knit, the better it suits the office. The more texture it has, the more it belongs to the weekend.

Smooth fine knit is the most formal level and fits under any blazer. Rib knit looks sporty and follows the body. Cable knit is warm and traditional, a jumper for weekends, long walks and evenings by the fire. Stripes and elbow patches are the most casual level and turn a jumper into a statement.

The rule of thumb for an outfit is one textured piece with everything else smooth. A cable-knit jumper with smooth chinos looks considered, while the same jumper with a checked shirt and corduroy trousers quickly becomes too much.

Colours: three shades for the whole autumn

If you buy jumpers by colour, you need fewer of them. Three shades cover the whole autumn: grey, because it goes with any trousers; navy, because it looks calmer than black and works equally well with beige and grey; and an earth tone such as beige, brown or khaki, which makes an outfit look warmer.

Black is worth one exception, and that is the roll neck. White and cream are the autumn colours for contrast with dark trousers. And a jumper in burgundy or dark green is the one accent that brings a grey or brown outfit to life.

Fit, care and the most common mistakes

The shoulder seam sits on the shoulder. If it hangs lower, the jumper looks a size too big, unless it is deliberately cut oversized. The sleeves end at the wrist, and the hem sits at belt height.

The jumper is too long for the blazer. If knit shows below the hem of the blazer, the outfit looks untidy. A jumper worn under a blazer should end at the belt.

A chunky knit under a slim coat. The coat pulls, and the jumper creases along the arms. A chunky knit needs a roomy coat or no coat at all.

The jumper lives on a hanger. Knitwear stretches on a hanger and gets bumps at the shoulders. Fold your jumpers and cardigans, and dry them flat after washing.

If you are starting from scratch, buy in this order: a fine crew-neck jumper in grey, a quarter-zip in navy and a button-up cardigan in an earth tone. These three cover the office, the weekend and the evening. A black roll neck comes fourth as soon as it gets colder. The whole range is in the FW26 Collection.

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